The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Originally released as 'Lui' in 2017, created by Delphine Jelk, this fragrance found its name 'Œillet Pourpre' in 2021 when Guerlain repositioned it within the L'Art & La Matière collection. 'Œillet Pourpre,' purple carnation in French, is the name the fragrance now carries. Delphine Jelk described her intent plainly: 'The carnation is such a beautiful, poetic flower. I have reinterpreted it using the various faces of benzoin to make it more provocative.' The carnation, reimagined through the resinous warmth of benzoin, emerges here not as a delicate floral but as something with real presence, its natural spice amplified and given new dimension. The result carries an unexpected edge, a reinterpretation that stays true to the flower's character while pushing it into unfamiliar territory.
Jelk found herself drawn to the carnation and its potential. She wanted to explore what this flower could become when seen through the lens of benzoin. The resinous warmth of benzoin offered a way to build around the carnation's natural character, to frame its spice and give it structure. Where a more traditional approach might have softened the flower, this reinterpretation keeps its edge intact. The carnation retains its distinctive quality while the benzoin adds a warmth that supports and enhances without overwhelming.
The evolution
The opening is clove, sharp, with a fleeting sweetness from the pear that barely registers before the carnation takes over. That hand-off is the first surprise. The clove doesn't fade gently; it gets overtaken. The carnation arrives with a peppery bite that feels alive. Benzoin wraps around it, adding smoky warmth. The drydown arrives with leather emerging, and the sweetness recedes as something darker takes over. Smoke and vanilla work together, creating warmth. The fragrance moves through these stages, each note building on what came before, the carnation at the center of a composition that takes it seriously. What Jelk created here is a carnation that asserts itself, that offers something with real presence, a fragrance that invites the wearer to experience this flower in a way that surprises.
Cultural impact
This is artistic perfumery, with the L'Art & La Matière collection representing Guerlain's most creative work. The 2021 renaming from 'Lui' to 'Œillet Pourpre', purple carnation in French, anchored the scent in the name of its central flower. The fragrance places the carnation at its core, building an entire composition around this single botanical subject. What emerges is a perfume that takes the carnation seriously as a material, giving it space to express its full character. The result is a scent that feels deliberate, built around a clear vision of what the flower can become when approached with care and artistic intention.
























