The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Tonkaholic arrived in 2024, composed by Luca Maffei for Esse Strikes The Notes. The name says everything, this is a fragrance built around tonka bean as the protagonist, not a supporting player. The Italian house has a habit of treating each of its scents as a named character, an alter ego with weight and opinion. Tonkaholic is no different. It wears its affection for warm, sweet-oriental composition openly, leaning into the idea that indulgence can still have structure. The coffee note opens the composition, a dark, roasted counterweight to the tonka and vanilla that follow. The result is a fragrance that announces itself through contrast rather than volume, starting one place and landing somewhere entirely different.
What makes the Tonkaholic structure interesting is the opposition at its core: roasted coffee against vanilla cream, dark bitterness against sweet warmth. Here, they negotiate. The coffee opens the top, sharp, present, almost astringent, while the vanilla flower and white florals (lily of the valley, freesia) provide an immediate softness that prevents the whole thing from reading as bitter. By the time the tonka bean arrives in the heart, the coffee has already begun its retreat. The sandalwood adds a creamy, slightly woody dimension that bridges the top and base.
The evolution
The opening is the most assertive moment. Roasted coffee leads, but it's not alone, freesia and lily of the valley provide a cool, almost dewy counterpoint that most coffee fragrances skip entirely. The vanilla blossom arrives quickly, softening the edges before the coffee can settle into something harsh. The coffee begins its retreat as the heart develops. The heart takes over: tonka bean and raw sugar creating sweetness, jasmine and sandalwood adding warmth and a slightly creamy floral dimension. The sandalwood is doing real work here, it keeps the sweetness from reading as dessert. The drydown is where Tonkaholic finds its most devoted admirers. Tonka bean, vanilla cream, and amberwood create a warm, close, intimate presence that lasts through most of a workday. The projection is moderate, present within arm's reach, nothing more. The opening is the loudest moment.
Cultural impact
Tonkaholic draws those exploring warm, sweet-oriental compositions toward Esse Strikes The Notes. The coffee-to-tonka arc creates an unexpected progression that sets it apart from typical vanilla fragrances, and its moderate sillage makes it appropriate for regular wear. The interplay between dark roasted coffee and creamy tonka bean feels deliberate rather than accidental, with white florals threading through to keep the composition from becoming heavy. This is the kind of fragrance that appeals to those seeking something with character and depth, a signature that speaks rather than shouts.
