The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Black Orange Pekoe arrived in 2015 from Michael Boadi. There are no confirmed details about the brief behind the fragrance, so its story lives in the tension it creates. It opens with bright citrus, moves into soft floral textures, and settles into cocoa depth and the dark sweetness of liquorice. Orange, yuzu, and bergamot provide a crisp entry, while jasmine and Moroccan rose introduce a smoother, powderier layer. Blood orange adds a deeper red-fruit accent as the composition develops. The drydown shifts the scent toward bittersweet cocoa and gently spiced liquorice, creating a darker finish without losing the earlier brightness. The result is theatrical but controlled, moving between sparkling citrus, delicate florals, and a rich tea-like trail.
The unusual part is the meeting point. Chinese blood orange and Japanese yuzu bring a sharp, polished citrus opening, while jasmine and Moroccan rose make the middle feel almost traditionally elegant. Then cocoa and Asian liquorice pull the composition away from a simple citrus floral, adding bitterness, powder, and a dark dessert-like warmth. That contrast gives the scent its personality. It isn't trying to be one thing, and that refusal to sit neatly in a category is exactly what makes it memorable.
The evolution
The opening starts with a clean burst of citrus: orange, yuzu, and bergamot bring a bright, polished snap, with blood orange adding a deeper red-fruit edge. As those facets move aside, jasmine and Moroccan rose arrive, turning the scent softer and more powdery without losing its structure. The citrus remains woven through the florals, giving the composition a continual lift rather than allowing the heart to become overly sweet or diffuse. The drydown is where it becomes less predictable. Cocoa and Asian liquorice leave a bittersweet, gently spiced trail, darker than the opening without becoming heavy. Over time, the fragrance settles into a close, layered presence, balancing bright fruit and floral textures with the deeper tones of cocoa and liquorice. The result feels like the same polished floral scent viewed through a darker window.
Cultural impact
Black Orange Pekoe offers an eccentric point of view within niche fragrance by pairing familiar citrus and floral notes with a darker cocoa-and-liquorice finish. Orange, yuzu, bergamot, and blood orange create a lively opening, while jasmine and Moroccan rose add a softer, more powdery middle. As the composition develops, the brighter fruit facets remain connected to the floral layer before cocoa and Asian liquorice introduce a bittersweet depth.
The House
BohdidharmaBohdidharma is a British niche fragrance house created by Michael Boadi, the perfumer previously known for Boadicea the Victorious and Illuminum. The brand explores bold, unconventional compositions, from Onyx Opium and Black Lapsang to Green Camellia and Imperial Saffron, drawing on smoky teas, exotic florals, and resinous materials. Launched into Fenwick on New Bond Street, Bohdidharma positions itself at the intersection of British perfumery craft and an appetite for eccentric, sometimes challenging scent structures.
The Creator
Michael BoadiBoadi's signature tends toward opulence and clarity in equal measure. His fragrances often feature rich florals, warm resins, and deep woods executed with a clean hand that keeps them from overwhelming.
