The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
A candlelit café in an unnamed medieval city. The kind of place where shisha smoke hangs in amber light and Turkish coffee arrives sweet and thick. Sunyata Calogeros-Smith found it by accident, wandered in, stayed for hours. The memory became Mevlana. Cardamom and pink pepper open sharp, the way good things should. Then the warmth unfolds: jammy rose, dried fruits, Turkish coffee. Shisha tobacco and incense settle into something deeper, something that takes up space. Vanilla sugar and sandalwood in the drydown, the smell of a room you don't want to leave. It's a portrait of one evening. Rich, soulful, unhurried. The kind of scent that makes you want to find that café again, even if you know it only existed once.
What makes this composition unusual is the balance between sweetness and smoke. Most tobacco fragrances lean one way or the other, sweet gourmand or heavy campfire. Mevlana holds both at once. The shisha tobacco isn't dry or medicinal; it's the soft, sweet smoke of a shared pipe. Turkish coffee and vanilla sugar keep it warm and edible. Rose and dried fruits give it a jammy, almost syrupy heart. The base is dense: mastic or lentisque adds a green-balsamic note that lifts the heaviness, while sandalwood and mahogany keep everything grounded in wood. Incense doesn't dominate, it threads through, adding depth without turning this into a church fragrance.
The evolution
The opening hits fast. Cardamom and pink pepper, sharp, aromatic, immediate. This is the first minute. Maybe two. Then the rose arrives. It doesn't burst. It blooms, slow, as the sweetness deepens. Dried fruits emerge alongside Turkish coffee, a thick, aromatic haze that builds over the next two to four hours. By hour four, the shisha tobacco and incense have settled. They no longer fill the room. They cling. Close. Intimate. This is when the fragrance becomes about skin and fabric rather than air. The vanilla sugar and sandalwood carry the drydown, warm, woody, sweet without being sugary. On clothes, it lingers into the next day. Not loud. Just there. A ghost of coffee and smoke.
Cultural impact
Not for everyone, and that suits it perfectly. Mevlana speaks to tobacco enthusiasts who want sweetness without surrendering smoke, and sweetness without becoming dessert. It's the kind of scent that divides a room in the best way: people either lean in or step back. Either response means you've made an impression.
The House
UNTAMEDUntamed Perfumes is an independent niche fragrance house founded in 2021 in Vancouver, British Columbia. The house emerged from the creative vision of Sunyata Calogeros-Smith, a Canadian-born perfumer who transitioned from a career in somatic psychotherapy to pursue olfactory art. Handcrafting each composition in small batches, Untamed creates fragrances that function as sensory explorations rather than conventional signature scents. The catalog spans themes ranging from Pacific Northwest landscapes (Salish Sea, 2022) to mythological imagery (Running With The Wolves, 2021), Mediterranean warmth (My Greek Lover, 2022), and introspective darkness (Ghost, 2024). The brand operates without a dedicated in-house perfumer attributed to each release, suggesting Calogeros-Smith serves as the primary creative force across the entire collection. Untamed maintains an active presence in niche fragrance communities through direct-to-consumer sales and social media engagement, building recognition among collectors who value unconventional approaches to fragrance composition.
The Creator
Sunyata Calogeros-SmithSunyata's style resists the predictable architectures common in commercial fragrance. She favors natural materials and botanical complexity, working with the irregularities that make natural ingredients unpredictable and alive.
