The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Tabac Gourmand arrived in 2018 as one of the first releases from Patrice Martin's eponymous house, and it immediately staked out unusual territory. Where most new niche houses were building toward either clean modern florals or aggressive oud-leather statements, Martin chose a different axis: tobacco and gourmand, two families that rarely share a bottle without one drowning the other. The name says exactly what it is, tobacco made edible, sweetness given structure. No abstraction, no clever wordplay. Just the combination, committed.
What makes the composition work is the specific choice of materials within each family. The tobacco isn't the dark, smoky, almost tar-like leaf of a typical masculine fragrance, it's a brighter, more aromatic leaf that reads almost as a white floral when it catches light. The gourmand side doesn't arrive as cinnamon or caramel, it arrives as tonka bean, which carries a marzipan sweetness that is simultaneously sweet and dry. These are the two pillars holding the whole structure. The cacao pod adds a dark, slightly bitter chocolate note that prevents the composition from becoming saccharine. The dried fruits at the base, prunes, dried apricot, add a sticky, resinous sweetness that anchors the drydown and gives it longevity.
The evolution
The opening announces itself immediately. Tobacco leaf and a warm spice accord, clove, a touch of cinnamon, arrive together, crisp and aromatic. This phase lasts the first hour, maybe ninety minutes, before the heart begins to assert itself. The hand-off happens around the one-hour mark. Vanilla and tonka bean emerge, softening the tobacco's edges and introducing that marzipan sweetness. The cacao pod arrives shortly after, dark and almost bitter against the creaminess. This is the heart of Tabac Gourmand, the point where the scent feels most edible, most indulgent, and most itself. The tobacco blossom in the heart is more refined than the opening leaf, more aromatic than smoky. The drydown settles slowly. Dried fruits and woody notes take over, but the vanilla and tonka bean don't fully disappear, they linger, sweet and powdery, for the remaining hours. The sillage moderates as the composition moves closer to the skin, becoming intimate rather than projecting.
Cultural impact
Tabac Gourmand arrived in 2018, a year when the gourmand trend was well established but tobacco remained largely in the domain of masculine, smoke-forward compositions. The fragrance occupies a specific position: sweet enough to appeal to the edible-note lover, dry enough to satisfy the tobacco enthusiast. It found its audience among niche collectors who appreciate both the gourmand appeal and the structural edge, the kind of wearer who wants presence without aggression. The Roure-trained approach of layering distinct olfactory families rather than narrowing to a single theme is evident here, and it is what separates this from simpler tobacco-vanilla combinations.
The House
Patrice MartinPatrice Martin is a Russian perfume brand established in 2018, founded by the designer of the same name. The brand has produced 33 fragrances according to fragrance databases, ranging from 2018 through 2025. Martin trained at Roure, now part of Givaudan, before launching his independent house. His portfolio spans fruity florals like Miss Cherry, woody compositions such as Tabac Gourmand, and more conceptual offerings including As Deadly As A Gun and Fly Above The Sky. The brand operates within the niche fragrance segment, offering scents that blend Western perfumery techniques with influences reportedly drawn from musical maqam traditions.
The Creator
Patrice MartinPatrice builds his formulas around a core of natural absolutes, often sourcing rare flowers from Grasse and exotic woods from the Far East. He layers ingredients in three stages: a clear opening, a textured heart, and a lingering base that evolves on skin.
