The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
The concept paired jasmine with oud, taking the hypnotic, seductive power of the white floral and marrying it to the multifaceted depth of the resinous wood. The idea landed with perfumer Julien Rasquinet, who accepted the challenge. What resulted is a fragrance that honors both materials, giving each room to breathe while allowing them to amplify one another. The jasmine never disappears into the background, and the oud never dominates prematurely. Instead, the two engage in a quiet dialogue that unfolds across the wearer's skin, with the floral arriving first and the darker wood waiting patiently beneath.
Jasmine sambac absolute arrives as the protagonist rather than a supporting player, its intense floral presence anchored by osmanthus absolute, which brings a apricot-like softness that amplifies rather than gentles the white floral. Cedarwood bridges the heart and base, giving the florals something to stand on before the Cambodian oud finally surfaces. The labdanum and sandalwood that follow do not just finish the fragrance, they reframe the jasmine retrospectively, making it read as warmer and more animalic than it would alone.
The evolution
The opening presents a bright trio: pear peel, raspberry, and a CO2 ginger extract that reads as clean heat rather than spice. It does not announce itself, it refreshes. Shortly after, jasmine sambac takes the stage and establishes its presence. The osmanthus follows, adding a jammy apricot body that rounds the floral into something full and slightly exotic. Cedar arrives to ground what could have become too heady, providing a steady base for the florals to rest upon. The oud does not announce itself. It simply appears, first as a warmth, then as a quiet animalic whisper beneath the florals. As time passes, the jasmine softens, and the drydown reveals what was always underneath: dense Cambodian oud, French labdanum absolute with its resinous, slightly leathery warmth, and Ceylonese sandalwood that adds a milky softness. On skin, the fragrance remains resinous and close.
Cultural impact
Oud in White arrived as part of Laboratorio Olfattivo's ongoing exploration of contemporary Italian niche perfumery. The fragrance pairs jasmine sambac with osmanthus, creating a floral experience that extends beyond the more familiar jasmine grandiflorum territory. This combination brings together two white florals with distinct characters, letting the osmanthus add a jammy apricot dimension that rounds the jasmine into something richer and more layered. The result is a scent that speaks to those drawn to florals but looking for something with more complexity than the commercial standard.
