The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
The perfumer wanted a rainbow unicorn. That was the image, the whole concept, something that starts vivid and colorful, then shifts into something colder, harder, statuesque. Blood orange and lavender open together: the citrus fruity, the lavender herbal and just slightly medicinal. Then the drydown arrives and the blood orange recedes like a memory. What replaces it is amber and labdanum, elemi and nutmeg, a resinous territory that feels less like warmth and more like a stone surface in winter. The fragrance was released in 2018 as part of Fleur de Point's debut trio, alongside Python Sauvage and Au Pink Flamingo. Marie Clapisson built each name like a chapter heading, provocative and deliberate, demanding to be noticed.
The combination that makes Licorne Maudite unusual is the blood orange paired with labdanum. One is bright and fruity, the other is sticky and resinous with a mineral edge, these shouldn't sit together, and yet they do. The elemi adds a faint pine quality, a slight camphor lift that prevents the resins from becoming heavy. Nutmeg runs through the middle like a dry thread, keeping everything slightly powdery. This isn't a linear fragrance, it's more like a conversation between two completely different moods, with the citrus side making the resins more accessible and the resinous side keeping the fruit from being too sweet.
The evolution
The opening arrives within seconds: blood orange hitting bright and tart, lavender immediately beside it, nutmeg warming the edges. The citrus doesn't linger politely, it starts fading, replaced by something resinous moving upward through the composition. Elemi brings a faint pine and camphor quality that cools the whole thing down. By the second hour, labdanum and amber are fully in command, creating a drydown that smells less like warmth and more like cold stone. The nutmeg persists longest, staying as a dry powdery note even as the resins settle close to the skin. After three to four hours, what remains is a whisper of amber and labdanum, intimate and close, with a faint lavender that hasn't quite disappeared. The sillage remains consistent throughout wear, close enough to catch when someone leans in.
Cultural impact
Licorne Maudite occupies unusual territory in contemporary niche perfumery, a citrus-forward composition that cools into resin rather than warming up. The slightly medicinal quality under the blood orange has generated divided reactions: some wearers find it strange, others find it magnetic. The brand's literary positioning attracts those who want fragrance to function as text rather than ornament. For those drawn to unconventional aromatic narratives, it stands apart from more conventional offerings, prioritizing character over comfort.






















