The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Caroline Dumur designed Immortelle as part of Chloé's Atelier des Fleurs collection, a line built around the idea that a single flower can carry an entire fragrance. The immortelle, also known as helichrysum or the everlasting flower, has long been valued in perfumery for its tenacity and its unusual scent: part dried herb, part warm honey, part something harder to name. Dumur wanted to capture that complexity rather than temper it, building a composition that lets the flower speak first and longest.
What makes immortelle unusual in perfumery is how it refuses easy categorization. It sits between aromatic and floral, between honeyed sweetness and dusty herbalism. The combination with tuberose absolute and jasmine absolute amplifies the floral dimension, but the immortelle keeps pulling back toward earth and warmth. Salt in the opening reinforces the coastal association, the smell of sea air meeting warm stone, while sandalwood and tonka bean absolute settle into a base that feels less like perfume and more like skin remembered.
The evolution
The first minutes belong to salt and citrus: bergamot and lemon cutting through with cool clarity. Within ten minutes, the immortelle pushes through, that warm, honeyed, slightly curry-like note that defines the fragrance's character. The tuberose and jasmine follow, but they don't dominate. They frame the immortelle, adding softness to its edge. Three hours in, the composition has settled into something warmer and more intimate: sandalwood, vanilla, tonka bean. The drydown is close to the skin, lasting another four to six hours depending on skin chemistry. On fabric, it lingers longer, a quiet presence rather than a statement.
Cultural impact
Immortelle enters a fragrance landscape where single-botanical compositions remain rare at luxury price points. The helichrysum flower has long been prized in Mediterranean folk medicine and cosmetics, but its move into high-end perfumery signals a growing appetite for unusual materials. Chloé's Atelier des Fleurs line uses the immortelle note to introduce consumers to botanicals typically confined to niche houses, bringing an herbal, honeyed quality to a mainstream audience. This approach reflects a broader industry shift toward educational, botanical storytelling rather than generic floral marketing.
The House
ChloéChloé is a French fashion house that entered the fragrance world in 1975 with an eponymous feminine scent. The brand works with Coty for fragrance production and has built a portfolio of 76 perfumes spanning floral, woody, and fresh scent families. Led since October 2023 by creative director Chemena Kamali, Chloé continues to channel the free-spirited femininity envisioned by its founder Gaby Aghion, who established the house in 1952 as a pioneering force in luxury ready-to-wear. The fragrance collection, including signature releases like the 2008 Chloé Eau de Parfum and the Atelier des Fleurs range launched in 2019, maintains the house's romantic aesthetic through light florals, rose-forward compositions, and elegant bottle designs featuring the signature pleated glass and hand-tied ribbon.
The Creator
Caroline DumurCaroline favors bold structures built on a clear hierarchy. She often starts with a dominant natural note—jasmine, oud, or cedar—then weaves in a synthetic accent that adds depth or sparkle.
