The Story
Why it exists.
Sunrise and Set was conceived in 2023 by the duo Dmitry Bortnikoff and Russian Adam, seeking to capture the moment when a new day breaks over an oud‑rich landscape. Inspired by the contrast between a bright morning sky and the lingering warmth of night, the perfumers layered bitter orange, lemon and cardamom to evoke the first light, then let Indian oud emerge as a subtle backdrop. The name reflects that duality, the sun’s rise and its eventual set.
If this were a song
Community picks
Sunrise
Norah Jones
The Beginning
Sunrise and Set was conceived in 2023 by the duo Dmitry Bortnikoff and Russian Adam, seeking to capture the moment when a new day breaks over an oud‑rich landscape. Inspired by the contrast between a bright morning sky and the lingering warmth of night, the perfumers layered bitter orange, lemon and cardamom to evoke the first light, then let Indian oud emerge as a subtle backdrop. The name reflects that duality, the sun’s rise and its eventual set.
The choice of bitter orange and lemon gives the opening a sharp, almost electric clarity that cuts through the usual heaviness of oud, while cardamom adds a creamy spice that bridges the gap to the floral heart of magnolia, vetiver and orris. By anchoring the base with cedarwood, Indian oud and patchouli, the composition grounds the fleeting citrus, creating a seamless transition from day‑break freshness to night‑time depth, a rare balance in modern fougère designs.
The Evolution
At first spray, the bitter orange erupts like a sunrise over a citrus grove, instantly brightening the skin. Within ten minutes the lemon sharpens the edge, and cardamom rolls in, adding a warm, aromatic spice that softens the citrus glare, creating a sparkling, invigorating start. As the top fades, magnolia blooms, its soft white petals mingling with earthy vetiver and powdery orris, giving the heart a smooth, slightly green elegance. By the half‑hour mark the base awakens: cedarwood lays a dry, resinous foundation, Indian oud whispers an animalic richness without overwhelming, and patchouli adds an earthy depth that lingers into the evening. The drydown settles into a quiet, lingering warmth that can be sensed on the inner arm for up to eight hours, leaving a faint trail that whispers rather than shouts.
Cultural Impact
Since its 2023 debut, Sunrise and Set has become a staple among niche enthusiasts who appreciate a bright opening paired with authentic oud. Reviewers note its strong sillage and moderate longevity, positioning it alongside citrus‑woody staples like Amouage Reflection while offering a more approachable spice edge. Its balanced profile has earned it a spot in seasonal wardrobes and frequent mentions in fragrance round‑ups.
The House
Australia · Est. 2018
Feel Oud crafts pure agarwood (oud) oils and attars for fragrance lovers who seek depth without dilution. The brand sources resinous wood from Burma, South Thailand, Vietnam and Sri Lanka, then distills it in small copper stills to preserve the natural character of the resin. Each bottle delivers a single‑note experience that can stand alone or blend into a personal perfume. Feel Oud positions itself as a bridge between traditional oud craftsmanship and modern minimalist aesthetics, offering collectors a transparent view of origin, method and scent profile.
If this were a song
Community picks
Like a sunrise over a spice market, the scent starts bright and crisp, then settles into a warm, woody groove, the playlist’s first track captures that glow, while the later songs echo the lingering oud.
Sunrise
Norah Jones
