The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Mémoires du Paradis was launched in 2024 by Awshal, with Hamid Merati-Kashani as its perfumer. Its structure begins with cinnamon and mandarin orange, moves into the soft white floral world of tuberose and ylang-ylang, then settles over cedarwood, labdanum, patchouli, and vanilla. The composition is built around contrasts: citrus and spice at the opening, dense floral notes through the center, and woods, resins, earth, and sweetness in the base. Cinnamon adds warmth beside mandarin orange's brighter quality, while tuberose and ylang-ylang create a soft, rounded floral phase. Cedarwood and patchouli give the later notes depth, joined by labdanum's resinous character and vanilla's smooth sweetness.
The interesting part is the handoff between bright and plush. Mandarin orange and cinnamon establish the opening with contrasting impressions, one fresh and the other warmly spiced. Tuberose and ylang-ylang then shape the heart into a fuller floral passage, with a rounded texture that stays smooth and balanced. The base adds weight through patchouli, labdanum, cedarwood, and vanilla. Earthy, resinous, woody, and sweet elements meet as the composition settles, creating a layered progression from the opening brightness to the deeper finish.
The evolution
The opening starts with a flicker of mandarin orange, bright and neat against the warming pull of cinnamon. Then tuberose and ylang-ylang take over, turning the composition floral, plush, and a little honeyed. As the scent settles, cedarwood gives it a dry, steady frame. Patchouli deepens that frame with soil and shadow, while labdanum brings amber-like warmth. Vanilla remains as the final softener, leaving a sweet, woody impression as the composition develops. By the time the brighter notes have faded, the fragrance feels warmer and more grounded than its initial introduction. Expect the character to keep unfolding across roughly 4 to 6 hours, with moderate sillage accompanying it.
Cultural impact
Mémoires du Paradis can be explored through its note structure and the way its materials shift across the composition. Mandarin orange and cinnamon create a bright, warm opening, while tuberose and ylang-ylang introduce a fuller floral center. Cedarwood, labdanum, patchouli, and vanilla give the later stage a deeper character through wood, resin, earth, and sweetness. This progression offers a polished composition for discovery, with enough contrast to keep the scent interesting as it develops and enough softness to remain rounded throughout the wear.
The House
AwshalAwshal is a Riyadh-based perfume house that connects contemporary fragrance composition with stories drawn from the Arabian Peninsula and wider regions encountered along historic trade routes. The house is associated with Oman through its collection narrative and presents its fragrances through evocative names such as Bois d'Aksum, Fou d'Amour and Caravanes d'Encens. Its first documented fragrance portfolio consists of ten releases introduced in 2024. Public information about the house remains limited, so its identity is best understood through this initial collection and the recurring themes of resin, wood, spice and atmosphere that give the perfumes their sense of place.
The Creator
Hamid Merati-KashaniFrom the evidence available, Merati-Kashani's style tends toward the opulent and the gourmand, with a clear appreciation for rich, complex accords. There's often a signature use of vanilla, spices, and woods, creating fragrances that are warm and inviting.
