WAX & WANE.

Wax & Wane arrived in 2015 as part of Filigree & Shadow’s early wave of daring releases. Perfumer James Elliott, the studio’s founder, set out to capture the ebb and flow suggested by the name, the bright flare of wax melting and the lingering pull of night. Using a blend of citrus, aromatic herbs and deep oud, the fragrance reflects the house’s minimalist aesthetic while still telling a vivid olfactory story.

The composition pairs an uncommon trio, coriander, broom and saffron, with classic warm woods. Coriander adds a green‑sharp edge that balances bergamot’s brightness, while broom contributes a dry, almost woody whisper rarely heard in modern perfumery. Saffron’s golden spice bridges the top to the heart, preparing the stage for the rich oud, sandalwood and tobacco base that gives the scent its lasting depth.

The opening erupts with bergamot’s citrus spark, quickly followed by coriander’s peppery bite, creating a crisp, invigorating start that lasts about ten minutes. As the top fades, cardamom’s sweet heat joins broom’s dry, herbaceous whisper and saffron’s honeyed spice, forming a warm, aromatic heart that drifts like incense in a sun‑lit room, holding the scent’s character for the next half hour. When the heart settles, the base emerges: oud’s dark, animalic richness intertwines with creamy sandalwood and the smoky sweetness of tobacco, producing a lingering, powdery veil that persists on skin for four to six hours before softening into a quiet, comforting hush.

Since its debut, Wax & Wane has become a quiet reference point for modern niche perfumery, especially among collectors who value a narrative that blends bright citrus with deep, smoky woods. Its coriander‑forward opening broke the usual bergamot‑only introductions, inspiring a wave of fragrances that experiment with herbaceous spices in the top tier. Over the years, the scent has been cited in several editorial round‑ups as a hallmark of balanced complexity, and it continues to be discussed in community forums where enthusiasts dissect its evolving perception across seasons and personal chemistry. The fragrance’s vegan formulation also sparked conversations about sustainable sourcing in the niche market, reinforcing its cultural relevance beyond mere scent profile.