Oterma.

Oterma emerged in 2021 as Paolo Terenzi’s tribute to the tension between luminous white florals and the deep, animalic heart of oud. Conceived for the Comete collection, the perfume draws on the house’s candle‑making lineage, translating the glow of a candle flame into a bright tuberose opening that quickly yields to resinous balsam and three distinct oud sources. The name hints at a hidden garden where purity meets darkness, reflecting the brand’s love of narrative contrast.

The choice of Mexican tuberose, Tuscan iris and lily‑of‑the‑valley gives Oterma a rare, almost crystalline white‑floral top that few oud‑centric scents achieve. Adding Gurjan balsam and amyris introduces a warm, woody amber that bridges the floral brightness to the base, while the trio of Laotian, Cambodian and Indian oud creates a layered animalic depth. This complex structure lets the fragrance evolve dramatically, rewarding patience with a lingering, sensual dry‑down.

The first fifteen minutes are dominated by a burst of creamy Mexican tuberose, its honeyed richness amplified by the crisp green snap of lily‑of‑the‑valley and the soft powder of Tuscan iris; the bouquet feels like a sun‑lit greenhouse. Around the half‑hour mark, the heart awakens: Gurjan balsam spreads a warm, slightly sweet resin, amyris adds a dry amber glow, and cypriol oil (or nagarmotha) injects a smoky, earthy edge, while a whisper of vanilla flower softens the transition. As the scent settles into the dry‑down, the three oud pillars, Laotian, Cambodian and Indian, intertwine, each contributing its own smoky, leathery nuance. Madagascar vanilla sweetens the base, ambergris offers a fleeting marine saltiness, and musk smooths the finish, leaving an animal‑oriental trail that clings to skin and clothing for eight to ten hours, still audible in the morning after a night’s wear.

Within the niche community Oterma sparked debate for its daring blend of white florals and three oud sources. Wearers praise its bold animal‑oriental turn, while some note the intensity can dominate intimate settings. It’s often compared to other oud‑heavy compositions, cementing its place as a conversation‑starter among collectors.