The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Santal emerged from Kintsugi Perfumes in 2021, crafted by perfumer Martin Švach. The brief was simple on the surface: create a sandalwood fragrance that didn't sound like every other sandalwood fragrance. The answer wasn't to abandon the note, it was to challenge it. Cardamom brought smoke. Raspberry brought unexpected fruit. Leather brought backbone. Sandalwood, arriving last, became the conclusion rather than the cushion. The name itself is a quiet provocation. Calling a fragrance Santal sets an expectation. Švach subverts it, this isn't the soft, enveloping sandalwood of popular perfumery. It's sandalwood with something to prove.
What makes Santal work is the tension between its opening and its base. The top, cardamom, raspberry, thyme, announces itself with aromatic brightness and a faint tartness that catches attention. Most fragrances at this point would ease into softness. Santal pivots instead to leather. Not harsh leather, but warm, slightly animalic leather that anchors the heart and refuses to let the scent float away into abstraction. The sandalwood in the base isn't filler. It's the conclusion. Everything before it, the spice, the fruit, the herbal lift, the powdery iris, the oriental nagarmotha, builds toward this. And when it arrives, it doesn't overwhelm. It settles.
The evolution
The opening is swift. Cardamom smoke and tart raspberry arrive together in the first minutes, with thyme adding a green, aromatic lift that keeps the start from feeling heavy. Thirty minutes in, the heart takes over: iris and saffron introduce powdery warmth and a faint medicinal richness, while nagarmotha adds earthiness that deepens the whole structure. The drydown is where Santal earns its name. Leather emerges first, warm, slightly animalic, closer to worn leather than new leather. Then sandalwood, arriving not as a cloud but as a foundation. It carries the next several hours, wrapping everything in something warm and slightly animalic. By the time most fragrances have exhaled their last, Santal keeps going. On clothes, it can persist into the next day, fainter, softer, but unmistakable. The leather note especially lingers in fabric, a quiet reminder of what came before.
Cultural impact
Santal appeals to the wearer who treats fragrance as identity rather than decoration. Released in 2021, it sits at an accessible price point for an indie house, inviting to newcomers exploring beyond mainstream perfumery without requiring a collector's commitment. This approach reflects a broader shift toward accessible niche perfumery.
The House
Olibanum.Olibanum is a French perfume house that launched in 2021. The brand builds each scent around olibanum, an ancient resin prized for its warm, incense‑like aroma. It offers a modest catalogue that includes Néroli (2024), Safran (2022) and a series of single‑note creations released in 2022. The line emphasizes simplicity, conscious sourcing and a minimalist aesthetic that lets the material speak for itself.
The Creator
Martin ŠvachŠvach gravitates toward fresh, naturalistic compositions with clear structural logic. The Kingdom Come fragrance demonstrates his comfort with bright top notes, specifically apple, balanced against herbaceous undertones that ground the freshness without dulling it.
