Tears.

Conceived in 2022 by Mathieu Nardin, Tears seeks to translate the fleeting purity of a tear into scent. The Régime des Fleurs house, founded in New York in 2014, treats fragrance as a tactile tableau, so the perfumer layered a transparent green cognac oil with mandarin orange blossom to evoke the first glimmer of emotion. Pink pepper adds a fleeting spark, while the heart of lilac, iris and frankincense grounds the tear’s delicate weight, leading to an ambergris‑musk finish that lingers like the memory of a quiet sob.

Green cognac oil is a rare note that brings an herbaceous, slightly boozy green facet rarely heard in mainstream scents, making the opening feel both fresh and oddly comforting. Pairing it with mandarin orange blossom brightens the green, while pink pepper introduces a subtle spice that prevents the composition from slipping into sweetness. The inclusion of frankincense adds a resinous depth, bridging the floral heart to the animalic ambergris base, a contrast that defines the fragrance’s unique narrative.

At first spray, the green cognac oil bursts like a freshly cut herb, instantly sharpening the air with a crisp, almost metallic edge. Within minutes, mandarin orange blossom softens the bite, lending a citrus‑sweet veil that mingles with pink pepper’s fleeting heat, creating a moment that feels like sunrise on a dewy garden. As the heart emerges, lilac unfurls with a powdery, almost nostalgic softness, while iris adds a dry, elegant backbone and frankincense injects a smoky, incense‑like whisper. By the time the scent settles into its dry‑down, the ambergris and musk form a warm, animalic cushion that clings to skin like a quiet sigh, persisting for four to five hours before fading into a faint, comforting trace that lingers on clothing long after the wearer has left the room.

Since its 2022 release, Tears has been noted by niche enthusiasts for its daring green‑cognac opening, often compared to En Passant’s fresh green facet. Wearers cite its ability to evoke a quiet emotional moment, making it a favorite for art‑gallery openings and reflective evenings. Its blend of animalic ambergris with powdery lilac has sparked discussion on how modern perfumery can marry raw materiality with delicate florals.