The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Tonka bean typically plays a supporting role in gourmand fragrances, adding roundness to vanilla and lending coumarin depth to honey notes. In this composition, it steps into the foreground, invited to show qualities that often remain in the background. The slightly medicinal edge that some find polarizing becomes part of the conversation here, woven into a broader tapestry of scent. Sesame and almond provide the warmth that makes tonka feel familiar and approachable. Frankincense and myrrh appear alongside these sweet materials, their resinous presence adding dimension that shifts the experience away from simple dessert territory. The combination creates something that feels both comforting and unexpected, inviting the wearer to notice notes that might otherwise pass unnoticed.
Frankincense and myrrh appear alongside sesame, almond, and tonka, materials with an immediate, edible sweetness. The resinous materials don't overwhelm the composition with incense-like intensity. Instead, the frankincense adds a spiritual, almost meditative quality that shifts the entire experience away from dessert and toward something more contemplative. Myrrh contributes a warm, slightly balsamic depth that grounds the sweetness without fighting it. The result is a fragrance where warm, sweet notes and resinous depth coexist in balance.
The evolution
The opening announces itself quickly: sesame first, that roasted, nutty character that smells like fresh tahini or the top of a bag of roasted chestnuts. Green hazelnut arrives within minutes, adding a slightly bitter, textural quality that keeps the sweetness from becoming saccharine. The almond is there too, but it's the hazelnut that dominates, grounding the composition in something almost mineral, like sun-warmed wood. The heart opens gradually, revealing vanilla and warm spices beneath the surface. The frankincense doesn't arrive all at once; it builds slowly, adding a spiritual quality that shifts the composition from edible to something approaching ceremonial. Myrrh deepens the warmth, and labdanum adds a dusty, slightly animalic quality that feels ancient. Patchouli appears at the edges, keeping the composition grounded.
Cultural impact
The fragrance has found an audience among those who appreciate nutty-gourmand compositions but seek more complexity than simple sweetness provides. It creates warmth that feels meditative rather than hedonistic, something that hugs the skin rather than announces itself. The incense and resins work alongside sweet materials to create a contemplative quality, drawing the wearer inward rather than projecting outward. It's the kind of fragrance that works best in fall and winter, when the dry air and cooler temperatures let the warm resins and sweet base unfold properly.
The House
EPC Experimental Perfume ClubExperimental Perfume Club is a London-based perfume house founded by French perfumer Emmanuelle Moeglin. The brand operates on a dual model: creating small-batch fragrances for retail alongside offering interactive workshops where participants blend their own scents. This combination of product and experience sets EPC apart from conventional fragrance houses. The company holds Certified B Corporation status, indicating adherence to verified social and environmental standards. EPC's approach centers on making perfumery an accessible, hands-on pursuit rather than an opaque luxury reserved for industry insiders. Their fragrances, including entries like Sable Gris, Black Nagarmotha, and Rose Charcoal, reflect an experimental sensibility that draws curious customers into the creative process.
The Creator
Emmanuelle MoeglinMoeglin draws on her classical ISIPCA training while embracing an experimental sensibility. She favors a transparent, material-driven approach where each ingredient earns its place.
