Cannabis.

Cannabis arrived in 2019, and its name says everything. Bois 1920 didn't hedge with a subtitle or a softening descriptor, they put the note front and center, let it do the work. Perfumer Cristian Calabro built a structure around something that most houses would treat as a novelty ingredient, giving it the same weight as any foundation note. The result is a fragrance that doesn't apologize for what it is.

What makes this composition work is the restraint around the cannabis itself. Without that, it would be a one-note trick. Instead, Calabro paired it with patchouli and woody notes that give the green something to push against, and push against is what it does. The "slightly impudent" in the brand's own description is accurate. This isn't polite green. It's green with a point to prove. The pyramid layers cannabis through the entire arc, so the note evolves rather than disappears: starting sharp, settling into something earthier, landing on a dry wood that doesn't pretend to be anything but base.

The opening hits like a plant crushed between your fingers. Green, immediate, a little rough around the edges. There's no sweet citrus to soften the entrance, this is pure hemp from the first breath, and it's what sets the tone for everything that follows. Within the first hour, the patchouli begins to assert itself, bringing the earthiness up from under the green. The cannabis doesn't disappear; it changes register, moving from sharp to something more grounded. By hour three, you've entered the drydown. The woody notes arrive quietly, blond woods, nothing heavy or resinous, and they sit close to the skin. This is when the fragrance becomes intimate rather than assertive. The sillage moderates to something you have to lean in to find. What lingers is green wood, the ghost of the cannabis still present if you're looking for it, and a quiet warmth that stays through hour eight and beyond. On fabric the next morning: green and clean, like something that was there and then wasn't, except it left a trace.

Cannabis occupies a specific space in the modern fragrance landscape, it's become a shorthand for green, slightly edgy compositions that appeal to a wearer who wants something with personality. The 2019 launch placed it alongside fragrances like Byredo Open Sky and Kilian Smoke for the Soul, though it differentiates itself through dryness and a lack of sweetness. The comment from one reviewer that it compares favorably to sweeter cannabis fragrances for office wear suggests the composition found an audience beyond the obvious occasions.