The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Metal Wave arrived in 2018 as part of AllSaints' debut fragrance collection, a trio of unisex scents that included Sunset Riot and Incense City. The launch marked the British fashion label's first foray into perfumery, extending its reputation for urban edge into scent. Metal Wave takes its name from something structural and cold, a counterpoint to the warmth expected from fashion fragrance. Three notes, one contrast: crisp juniper against dry papyrus, with magnolia bridging the two.
Three notes is a statement. In a market built on pyramid-stacking and note lists that read like grocery receipts, using only papyrus, juniper berry, and magnolia is a commitment. The tension is architectural: juniper opens sharp and green, magnolia adds cool weight in the heart, papyrus grounds everything with dry, woody patience. Whether three materials can sustain a full fragrance, whether the juniper won't flash hot and vanish, whether the papyrus won't tip into mere dryness, is the question every reviewer ends up asking. Most find it holds. That's the bet.
The evolution
Juniper announces itself immediately, brisk, green, almost resinous in its sharpness. No easing in. Magnolia follows within minutes, cooler and heavier, a waxy floral weight that tempers the juniper without competing. The combination reads as green without being sharp, floral without being sweet. This phase lasts roughly two hours. Papyrus arrives as the juniper begins to recede, adding dry, woody texture that deepens rather than shifts. The magnolia softens but doesn't disappear. What lingers is intimate, close to the skin, moderate projection, the kind of presence you notice when someone leans in. On fabric, it holds for a full day.
Cultural impact
Metal Wave sits among AllSaints' first gender-fluid fragrance releases, alongside Sunset Riot and Incense City. The collection positioned attitude over trend, scents chosen by mood, not season. Three notes is a deliberate sparsity that sets it apart from mainstream perfumery's typical layering.























