Nicolas Vu
Nicolas Vu built his reputation as an olfactory storyteller who deciphers fragrance through its raw materials, formulas, and cultural narratives. Born in Asia and steeped in urban culture, Vu approaches perfumery with the analytical precision of a craftsman and the vision of an artist. He partnered with Sue Nabi, legendary former Dior and Orlane executive, to co-found Infiniment Coty Paris, a brand that positions itself as a disruptor within one of the industry's oldest houses. Together, they conceived a collection of fourteen fragrances that reject convention in favor of emotional resonance. Vu does not compose perfumes in isolation; he functions as a creative director who shapes the narrative arc of each fragrance alongside perfumers from leading houses. His work with Coty's exclusive Ambréine S demonstrates his willingness to anchor contemporary compositions in historic olfactory landmarks. The Infiniment Coty Paris project marks his emergence from behind-the-scenes consultancy into a public-facing creative force reshaping how consumers experience heritage perfumery.
The hits
Notable creations
The signature
How Nicolas composes
Vu gravitates toward contrasts that create tension and memorability. His work with Ambréine S, Coty's signature amber molecule, reveals a preference for warm, resinous foundations that provide staying power without heaviness. He favors clean structures where each material serves a distinct purpose, avoiding the堆积 approach that muddies many modern releases. Urban sensibility shapes his taste for sharper accords, unexpected green notes, and materials that feel metropolitan rather than pastoral. His fourteen creations for Infiniment Coty Paris demonstrate range, each targeting a different emotional register while maintaining a cohesive thread of sophisticated audacity. High concentration defines his output, reflecting a belief that longevity and sillage are not luxury features but requirements.
Philosophy
What drives Nicolas
Vu believes perfume operates as a language, one that speaks to memory, identity, and desire simultaneously. His creative process begins not with ingredients but with the emotional state he wants to evoke. He then works backward, selecting materials that construct that feeling with precision. This storyteller's approach treats each fragrance as a chapter in a larger narrative about what modern luxury scent can accomplish. He resists the industry's tendency to treat fragrance as a commodity, insisting instead on depth and intentionality in every formulation. Collaboration defines his method; Vu considers himself a curator who guides the vision while allowing specialized perfumers to execute the technical details. His partnership with Nabi reflects this philosophy, two creative minds pushing each other toward work that feels both innovative and grounded in Coty's century-long expertise.
The houses
Maisons Nicolas composes for
In the same league
